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Effects of four recovery methods on repeated maximal rock climbing performance
Heyman E, de Geus B, Mertens I, Meeusen R
Medicine and Science in Sports and Exercise 2009 Jun;41(6):1303-1310
clinical trial
4/10 [Eligibility criteria: Yes; Random allocation: Yes; Concealed allocation: No; Baseline comparability: Yes; Blind subjects: No; Blind therapists: No; Blind assessors: No; Adequate follow-up: No; Intention-to-treat analysis: No; Between-group comparisons: Yes; Point estimates and variability: Yes. Note: Eligibility criteria item does not contribute to total score] *This score has been confirmed*

PURPOSE: Considering the development of rock climbing as a competitive sport, we aimed at investigating the influence of four recovery methods on subsequent maximal climbing performance. METHODS: In a randomly assigned crossover design, 13 female well-trained climbers (27.1 +/- 8.9 yr) came to the climbing center on four occasions separated by 1 wk. On each occasion, they had to perform two climbing tests (C1 and C2) until volitional exhaustion on a prepracticed route (overhanging wall, level 6b). These two tests were separated by 20 min of recovery. Four recovery methods were used in randomized order: passive recovery, active recovery (cycle ergometer, 30 to 40 W), electromyostimulation on the forearm muscles (bisymmetric TENS current), or cold water immersion of the forearms and arms (three periods of 5 min at 15 +/- 1 degrees C). Climbing tests' performance was reflected by the number of arm movements and climb duration. RESULTS: Using active recovery and cold water immersion, performance at C2 was maintained in comparison with C1, whereas C2 performance was impaired compared with C1 (p < 0.01) using electromyostimulation and passive recovery (recovery method-by-climb interaction, p < 0.05). Blood lactate decreased during recovery, with the greatest decrease occurring during active recovery (time-by-recovery method interaction, p < 0.001). Arms and forearms' skin temperatures were lower throughout the cold water immersion compared with the other three methods (p < 0.001). CONCLUSION: Active recovery and cold water immersion are two means of preserving performance when repeating acute exhausting climbing trails in female climbers. These positive effects are accompanied by a greater lactate removal and a decrease in subcutaneous tissues temperatures, respectively.

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